The BMW X5 came out in 2000. It was a landmark vehicle, and proved that a two-ton 4x4 could behave just like a good road car. Then the Porsche Cayenne arrived in late 2002 and upped the performance and handling to sports car-worrying levels. And now we have Audi's take on the SUV, the monstrous Q7.

So what does the Q7 bring to the SUV party? Well, it's the biggest European SUV you can buy. At just over five metres long and a sliver under two metres wide, the Q7 is cavernous and versatile. In standard trim it's a seven-seater, but unless you fold down the rear two seats the boot is pretty useless. (Mentioning boot space in evo? I feel a little queasy...)

It's built on an extended VW Touareg platform and at launch the engine choice will be either a 3.0 V6 TDi producing 233bhp and 369lb ft of torque or a 4.2 V8 petrol with 344bhp and 325lb ft. The diesel Q7 starts at £37,285 while the V8 costs from £47,680, just undercutting the equivalent BMW X5.

Boldly, Audi claims that the Q7 is the most dynamically satisfying 4x4 on the market. It says the Q7 quashes the X5, easily matches the Cayenne and as for the Range Rover Sport, well, it isn't even deemed worthy of comparison. Handily we know a tricky road not far from Ingolstadt, and with a sprinkling of ice and snow the chassis should reveal its true potential at nice low speeds. I don't fancy all 2240kg getting away from me at serious velocities...

You sit lower than you might expect and the raked-back windscreen makes the Q7 feel unexpectedly car-like. The interior is to Audi's usual high standard, and when the surprisingly vocal V8 percolates the cabin you start to think the Q7 might just be a lot of fun.

Snow and ice mean winter tyres on 18in rims (most buyers will opt for the 20in S line alloys), on which the Q7 rides very quietly and comfortably. The steering is light and precise, and the relatively small diameter wheel helps you feel connected with the responsive front end. It's a more natural-feeling system than, say, that of the Range Rover Sport. The whole car feels just a bit lighter, too.

Like the Rangey, the Q7 has adaptive air suspension with various ride heights for different terrains. In 'dynamic' mode the Q7 shows great tenacity, hooking into the tarmac and really attacking corners, containing roll excellently and making the most of the keen V8's grunt. But, as you might expect, it's no sports car. Mass and the high centre of gravity soon take hold and the Q7 slowly but surely slips into the clutches of understeer. Keep the throttle pinned and the four-wheel drive does start to rectify things. On very slippery surfaces it might even indulge you a little bit of oversteer, but the ESP system never fully disengages and you soon get the message that this isn't really what the Q7 is all about.

As a fast, practical and beautifully appointed SUV the Q7 is hard to criticise, but as a rewarding driver's car it's nowhere: too big and too heavy, and simply not as much fun as an X5 or Cayenne. I also think it's the ugliest Audi of all time, but maybe that's just me...