The fundamental ingredients haven't changed. As before, the Allroad is a butched-up version of the A6 Avant quattro, featuring a chunky bodykit, big alloys and, thanks to air suspension, the ability to raise its ride height to SUV-ish levels.

Although there's a dinky stainless-steel engine guard peeking out from under the front bumper, the lack of any other underbody protection suggests that the Allroad remains more about style than rock-hopping substance. That said, it's hard not to warm to the Audi as a considerably more intelligent take on SUV thinking than a hulking great toff-roader. It looks pretty good, especially when specced with the bodykit in a contrasting colour to the paintwork, and, thanks to a decent choice of diesel and petrol engines, it goes pretty well too.

Audi reckons 95 per cent of Allroad punters will opt for an oil-burner, with V6 TDI engines available in both 2.7 and 3.0 forms. But it's the 3.2-litre petrol V6 that proves to be the sweetest of the range - happy to rev, sounding good, and blessing the Allroad with front-end responses more agile than either diesel model or the borderline-gratuitous 4.2-litre V8 range-topper can muster.

The Allroad copes well with its natural tarmac environment, gripping keenly and steering with the newfound sweetness of recent Audis. It's impressively refined at motorway speeds, while quattro four-wheel drive aids traction - though, as in the Q7, the ESP can't be turned fully off.

If you want 95 per cent of the utility of an SUV without environmental protesters blockading your house, this just might be the way ahead.